Ilulissat in West Greenland put on quite a show for our arrival. Dead calm seas and blue skies, what better way to start an Arctic expedition. With much anticipation and excitement we loaded the final supplies aboard our 60 foot sailboat, made sure the water and diesel was topped up and cast off the lines. Ilulissat is the self proclaimed Iceberg capital of the world and it’s easy to see why. Billions of tons of . . .
Our team of 8 friends from Australia sailed into Hornstradir Nature Reserve under clear skies and light winds. It was the perfect start to the Arctic adventure. We pushed on into the evening and as the sun finally set we anchored in Hornik bay in the far northern reaches of the Reserve. The following morning we were up bright and early and oh what a morning it was, perfectly still and not a cloud . . .
The clash of two cultures was evident, as our kayak group sat in our boats staring at the 20 or so sea nomads sitting in their “mother boat”. The sea around us was dead calm, our boats barely moving in the windless and waveless waters. The expressions of the Moken people was stoic, as we waved and smiled at them, trying to elicit some sort of response. But they seemed uninterested in our kayaks, . . .